Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and visitors equally praising its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Recently, Unesco designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious roster of world cities and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of over 400 metropolises across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "innovation as a key factor of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "is a testament to its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city comes as little surprise to its residents or dedicated food lovers. Many share the view that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the spotlight for what has consistently defined its soul: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how will it be cooked' is a continued dialogue from waking up until night in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the standard of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, blending Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only highlights local ingredients but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and carts – hidden delights that are wildly favored by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, presented in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns slathered with freshly churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and complicated. The cook hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their younger generation are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people around the world to learn these narratives and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.